The Ultimate MOT Checklist 2026: Everything to Check Before Your Test
Spending around 20 minutes on a pre-MOT check dramatically improves your chances of passing first time. Work through the same areas the tester does: lights, tyres, brakes, windscreen and wipers, steering and suspension, exhaust, number plates, horn, seatbelts, bodywork, and dashboard warning lights. Most common failures are cheap, easy fixes like blown bulbs, worn wipers, empty screenwash, and low tyre tread.
The Ultimate MOT Checklist 2026: Everything to Check Before Your Test
Your MOT is coming up. You could just drop the car off and hope for the best — or you could spend 20 minutes running through this checklist and dramatically improve your chances of passing first time.
With 28% of cars failing the MOT each year, a pre-test check isn't just sensible — it's practically essential. And the good news is that most of the things the tester looks at are things you can inspect (and often fix) yourself.
This checklist follows the same structure the MOT tester uses, so you're covering everything in a logical order. Grab a cuppa, head out to the driveway, and let's go through it.
Before You Start
You'll need:
- Your car (obviously)
- A friend to help check brake lights and reversing lights (or use a wall/window reflection)
- A tread depth gauge or 20p coin
- A clean cloth
- About 20 minutes
Good to have but not essential:
- A tyre pressure gauge
- A torch
- A jack and wheel brace (for checking underneath)
Shortcut: The CarOkay Essential Kit contains a tread depth gauge, spare bulbs, screenwash, and wiper blades — everything you're most likely to need during this check.
Section 1: Lights and Signalling
Lighting faults are the number one reason cars fail the MOT (24% of all failures). Work through each light methodically.
Headlamps
- Dipped beam — both sides working
- Main beam — both sides working
- Headlamp lenses — no cracks, no excessive discolouration, no moisture inside
- Headlamp aim — both beams pointing at roughly the same height (park facing a wall at night to check)
Front Lights
- Sidelights (parking lights) — both working
- Front indicators — both working and flashing at the correct rate (not too fast, not too slow)
- Front fog lights — working if fitted (not tested if not fitted, but if they're there, they must work)
- Daytime running lights — working if fitted
Rear Lights
- Tail lights — both working
- Brake lights — both working (get someone to press the pedal, or reverse up to a window and check the reflection)
- High-level brake light — working if fitted
- Rear indicators — both working
- Rear fog light — at least one must work
- Reversing light — at least one must work
- Number plate light — illuminates the rear plate clearly
Other
- Hazard warning lights — all indicators flash simultaneously
- Side repeater indicators — working if fitted (on the wings or door mirrors)
What to do if something's not working
Nine times out of ten, it's a blown bulb. Most bulbs can be changed in minutes with no tools. Check your car's handbook for the bulb types and replacement procedure. A universal spare bulb kit costs around £5–£8 and covers the common types.
Section 2: Tyres and Wheels
Tyre failures account for 12% of MOT failures. Check each tyre individually, including the spare if it's a full-size spare on the ground.
Tread Depth
- Front left — minimum 1.6mm across the central three-quarters, all the way around
- Front right — same
- Rear left — same
- Rear right — same
How to check: Use a tread depth gauge (most accurate) or the 20p test. Insert a 20p coin into the main tread grooves. If you can see the outer band of the coin, your tread is below 2mm and likely near the legal limit.
Tyre Condition
- No cuts deeper than 25mm or 10% of the section width
- No bulges or lumps in the sidewall
- No exposed cords or fabric
- No cracking or perishing on the sidewall (common on older or low-mileage cars)
Tyre Matching
- Same size tyres on each axle (front pair must match; rear pair must match)
- No mixing of radial and cross-ply on the same axle
- Run-flat tyres not mixed with standard tyres on the same axle
Wheels
- All wheel nuts/bolts present and secure
- No cracked or damaged wheels
- Wheels correctly seated
Tyre Pressure
- All four tyres inflated to the manufacturer's recommended pressure (check the sticker inside the driver's door frame or fuel filler cap)
Tyre pressure isn't directly tested in the MOT, but incorrect pressure can affect braking performance tests and will cause uneven wear.
Section 3: Brakes
Brakes cause 21% of MOT failures. Some checks require you to drive the car; others you can do standing still.
Pedal and Handbrake
- Brake pedal — has good resistance, doesn't sink to the floor when held
- Brake pedal rubber — present and in reasonable condition (not worn smooth)
- Handbrake — holds the car on a slope, clicks into at least 3–4 notches
- Handbrake release — operates freely
Visual Checks
- Brake fluid reservoir — fluid between minimum and maximum marks
- Brake fluid condition — should be clear or light amber, not dark brown or black
- Brake pipes (visible from underneath) — no corrosion, kinks, leaks, or damage
- Brake hoses — no cracks, bulges, or leaks
- Brake discs (visible through wheel spokes) — no deep grooves, no pronounced lip around the edge, no cracks
Driving Checks (Do This Safely)
- Car pulls up straight under braking (doesn't pull to one side)
- No grinding, squealing, or unusual noises when braking
- ABS warning light — goes off after starting the engine (if the light stays on, there's a fault)
Section 4: Windscreen and Visibility
8% of MOT failures come down to visibility issues. These are among the easiest to fix.
Windscreen
- No chips larger than 10mm in Zone A (290mm-wide strip directly in front of the driver)
- No chips larger than 40mm in the rest of the swept area
- No cracks that extend across the swept area
- Windscreen not excessively pitted or scratched (must not impair the driver's view)
Wipers and Washers
- Front wiper blades — clear the screen without smearing, streaking, or missing sections
- Wiper blade rubber — no splits, tears, or hardening
- Wiper arms — secure and not bent
- Rear wiper — working if fitted (not tested if not fitted)
- Windscreen washers — produce a clear jet of fluid onto the swept area
- Washer fluid level — topped up (empty washer bottle = instant fail)
Mirrors
- Driver's door mirror — present, secure, and glass in good condition
- Interior rear-view mirror — present and secure
- Passenger door mirror — present, secure, and glass in good condition (required on vehicles first used after 1 August 1978)
Quick Fixes
- Smearing wipers? New blades take two minutes to fit. Around £6–£15 for a pair.
- Empty washers? A bottle of screenwash concentrate costs £2–£3. Dilute and fill up.
- Windscreen chip? Many insurers cover repair for free. DIY kits cost about £10.
Section 5: Steering and Suspension
Combined, steering and suspension issues account for around 21% of failures. Some of this needs a ramp to check properly, but you can catch obvious problems.
Steering
- Steering wheel — no excessive free play (the wheel shouldn't move more than about 15mm before the front wheels start to turn)
- Steering operation — smooth, no clunks or tight spots when turning lock to lock
- Power steering — working correctly, no heavy spots
- Power steering fluid — at the correct level (if applicable; electric power steering has no fluid)
Suspension
- Bounce test — push down firmly on each corner and release. The car should bounce back and settle within one or two bounces. Repeated bouncing means worn shock absorbers.
- Visual check of shock absorbers — no oil leaks or heavy staining
- Springs — no visible cracks or breaks (look through the wheel arches with a torch)
- CV boots (front-wheel-drive cars) — no splits or tears in the rubber gaiters on the driveshafts
- General — no heavy clunking over bumps when driving
Section 6: Exhaust and Emissions
5% of MOT failures are exhaust-related.
Exhaust System
- Exhaust secure — not hanging down or excessively loose
- No blowing — start the engine and listen for hissing or rasping from the exhaust. Ask someone to (briefly) block the tailpipe with a rag while you listen for leaks along the system.
- Catalytic converter — present (you can usually see it under the car, closer to the engine)
- DPF (diesel cars) — present if originally fitted. Do NOT remove it.
- Tailpipe — no excessive smoke (blue = oil burning; black = over-fuelling; white = possible head gasket)
Emissions Prep (If You're Worried)
- Drive the car for at least 20–30 minutes on a motorway or dual carriageway before the test to clear the exhaust and help the DPF regenerate
- Make sure the engine is fully up to temperature before the test
- For diesel cars, consider a DPF cleaning additive a week or so before the test
Section 7: Number Plates
7% of failures are number-plate related. Don't get caught out by this one.
- Front and rear plates present and securely fixed
- Characters legible and correctly spaced
- No cracks, fading, or discolouration that makes characters hard to read
- Correct font — no stylised or italic characters
- No illegal bolt covers or surrounds that obscure characters
- Plates conform to current regulations
- Rear plate illuminated by the number plate light
Quick Fix
If your plates are tatty, get replacements from a registered supplier. Around £15–£20 for a pair — you'll need your V5C logbook as proof of entitlement.
Section 8: Horn
This one takes five seconds.
- Horn works — produces a continuous, audible note when pressed
If it doesn't work, check the fuse first. If the fuse is fine, check the wiring at the horn itself (usually behind the front bumper).
Section 9: Seat Belts
- All seat belts present, secure, and operational
- Belts retract properly when released
- No cuts, fraying, or damage to the webbing
- Buckles click in and release correctly
- Mounting points secure (give each belt a sharp tug)
Section 10: Bodywork and Structure
- No excessive corrosion on structural areas (sills, chassis rails, subframes, suspension mounting points)
- No sharp edges or projections that could cause injury
- Doors open and close from both inside and outside
- Boot/tailgate opens and closes
- Fuel filler cap — present and secure
- Bonnet — latches securely
- Towbar (if fitted) — secure, not excessively corroded, electrical socket working
Section 11: Dashboard Warning Lights
From the driver's seat, turn the ignition on (but don't start the engine) and check the warning lights illuminate, then start the engine and confirm they go out.
- Engine management light (MIL) — must not be illuminated during the test
- ABS warning light — must not be illuminated
- Airbag warning light — must not be illuminated
- Tyre pressure monitoring light (TPMS) — must not be illuminated (vehicles first used from 1 January 2012)
- Electronic stability control (ESC) light — must not be illuminated (if fitted)
- Steering lock warning — must not be illuminated
Important: If a warning light is on, the tester must fail the car. There's no discretion here. Get warning lights investigated before the test.
Section 12: Other Items
A few things that are easy to forget:
- VIN plate — visible and legible (usually on the dashboard base, visible through the windscreen)
- Registration document — matches the vehicle
- Speedometer — present and illuminated
- Battery — secure in its tray
- Fluid leaks — no excessive leaks from engine, gearbox, or other components onto the ground
Your Pre-MOT Action Plan
One Week Before the Test
- Run through this entire checklist
- Order any parts you need (bulbs, wipers, screenwash, etc.)
- If you have a diesel, add DPF cleaner and take the car for a motorway run
- Deal with any warning lights — get them diagnosed and fixed
The Night Before
- Replace any blown bulbs
- Fit new wiper blades if the old ones are smearing
- Top up screenwash, brake fluid, power steering fluid
- Clean your number plates
- Check tyre pressures
On the Day
- Make sure the car is warmed up before you arrive (drive to the garage, don't get it towed cold)
- Remove anything from the boot that might obstruct the tester's access to seat belts or structural areas
- Make sure the tester can access the bonnet and fuel filler cap
Printable Quick Reference
| Check | Status |
|---|---|
| All exterior lights working | ☐ |
| Headlamp aim correct | ☐ |
| Tyre tread above 1.6mm (all four) | ☐ |
| Tyre condition good (no bulges/cuts) | ☐ |
| Tyre pressures correct | ☐ |
| Brake pedal firm | ☐ |
| Handbrake holds | ☐ |
| Brake fluid level OK | ☐ |
| Windscreen — no significant chips/cracks | ☐ |
| Wipers — clearing properly | ☐ |
| Washer fluid — full | ☐ |
| Mirrors — all present and secure | ☐ |
| Horn — working | ☐ |
| Number plates — clean, legible, secure | ☐ |
| Exhaust — no blowing or hanging | ☐ |
| Seat belts — all working | ☐ |
| Dashboard warning lights — all off | ☐ |
| No structural corrosion | ☐ |
| Doors open from inside and out | ☐ |
| No excessive fluid leaks | ☐ |
Get Everything You Need in One Box
Rather than hunting around for individual items, our CarOkay kits are designed to cover the most common failure points in a single box. The Essential Kit (£24.99) covers bulbs, wipers, screenwash, and a tread depth gauge — the four items most likely to save you from a fail.
Good luck with your test. With a bit of preparation, you've got every chance of sailing through.
Good question
Frequently asked questions
What should I check before an MOT?
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Work through the same areas the tester does. Check all exterior lights work, tyre tread is above the 1.6mm minimum with no bulges or cuts, the brake pedal is firm and the handbrake holds, the windscreen has no significant chips or cracks, the wipers clear the screen and the washer bottle is full, mirrors and the horn work, number plates are clean and legible, the exhaust is not blowing, seatbelts function, and no dashboard warning lights stay on. Most fixes are cheap and easy.
What are the most common MOT failures?
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Lighting and signalling faults are the single biggest cause at around 24% of failures, often just a blown bulb. Brakes account for roughly 21% and steering and suspension a similar share. Tyres cause about 12%, visibility issues like wipers and washers about 8%, number plates about 7%, and exhaust problems about 5%. Many of these, especially lights, tyres, wipers, and number plates, are cheap and quick to check and fix yourself before the test.
Will my car fail if a dashboard warning light is on?
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Yes. If a relevant warning light stays illuminated, the tester must fail the car, there is no discretion. Turn the ignition on without starting the engine, the warning lights should illuminate for the self-test, then start the engine and they should go out. The engine management light, ABS, airbag, tyre pressure monitoring light on cars from January 2012, and electronic stability control light must all be off. Get any light that stays on investigated before the test.
Does an empty washer bottle fail an MOT?
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Yes. An empty windscreen washer bottle is an instant fail, not just an advisory, and it catches thousands of cars out every year. The washers must produce a clear jet of fluid onto the swept area of the windscreen. The fix costs almost nothing, a bottle of screenwash concentrate is a couple of pounds, diluted and poured in. Worn wiper blades that smear or miss sections are also a failure point, and a new pair fits in about two minutes.
How do I check my tyre tread for an MOT?
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The legal minimum tread depth is 1.6mm across the central three-quarters of the tyre, all the way around. Use a tread depth gauge for the most accurate reading, or the 20p test, slot a 20p coin into the main tread grooves and if you can see the outer band of the coin your tread is getting low. Also check each tyre for cuts, bulges or lumps in the sidewall, exposed cords, and cracking, and make sure tyres on the same axle match in size.
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